Buddhaland Brooklyn review and giveaway


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My favourite thing about blogging is getting books through the post to review, and I have been pretty lucky so far not have reviewed anything I disliked. So, here is my latest review of ‘Buddhaland Brooklyn’ by Richard C. Morais from Alma Books, and your chance to win one of two copies of the book!

‘Buddhaland Brooklyn’ sees a traditional Buddhist monk, Seido Oda, weary of the outside modern world, torn away from the remote temple he has grown up in and thrust into the hustle and bustle of New York to oversee the construction and development of the city’s first Buddhist temple. Frustrated with what he sees to be false American believers who cannot possibly grasp the fundamental concepts of Buddhism, he is forced to attend grand charity dinners and fashion shows, and mingle with the most New York of New Yorkers. There are three parts to the book; Seido’s inauguration into the Buddhist temple and life in remote Mount Nagata, his early months in New York and resistance to and criticism of most things American, and, finally, his gradual integration into Brooklyn life and growing relationships with the people around him.

I have to say that Morais has a wonderful way with words and, on several occasions, I found his writing almost poetic. There are plenty of parts of the book I could pick as an example but I have managed to limit just one, where Seido recalls fishing with his brother as a child:

‘Onii-san turned around and walked back to his own fishing spot at the tail of the pool. I cast a final look in his direction as he took up his fishing rod again on the far side of the rock, his fly elegantly cast out on the water. The setting sun hit the angle of the waterfall spray just so, transforming the fine droplets of mist into an airborne diamond dust, and in this dappled light my brother stood alone, slowly passing into the coming night.’

On the other hand, you have very amusing observations of the frustrating and foreign behaviours exhibited by the New York Buddhists. Seido, the most traditional of Buddhist monks in the most modern of American cities, is shocked and appalled by the behaviour of these Believers he is meant to guide in the founding of their new temple. The problem is, they do not seem to treat it anywhere near as seriously as he expects them to be.

‘The Believers rustled their bags, hauled out tinfoil packets with all manner of foods, even opened Coca-Cola cans with a pop and hiss like they were at a picnic, not a religious ceremony. I was almost rendered speechless by this behaviour. Miss Laura, the physical therapist with big eyes and bigger chest, wore a bright-red dress and followed my every move with great hunger in her eyes, but I was not at all sure her appetite was for the tranquil light.’ 

The clash of cultures is my favourite thing about ‘Buddhaland Brooklyn’. New York is portrayed as an eclectic and ethnically diverse city, with too many wealthy white Americans with more money than sense and other ethnic groups who see no problem in blending religious and cultural practices, none of which Seido shows much patience for. The New York characters are wide-ranging and entertaining and, as you read on, you discover that there is a lot more to them than Seido’s first impressions. There’s the rich elevator salesman who believes ‘Buddhism works’ because his business recovered after he prayed to Buddha, a glamorous borderline sex addict, a passionate Italian landlord, a Caribbean woman who simultaneously worships at a Buddhist and ‘pagan’ alter, and a self-proclaimed Buddhism teacher who’s entire knowledge comes from books such as “Buddhism for dummies”.

It felt appropriate reading this book on the London underground, where people of all walks of life are crammed into a small space and yet never even make eye contact. In commuter mode, I could sympathise with the overwhelmed country-bumpkin Seido in the swelling mass that was Brooklyn. However, he does grow to love Brooklyn and, indeed, finds his unlikely Buddhaland in the city. This is a story of old meets new and traditional versus ultra-modern.

Competition time

So, here’s your chance to win one of two copies of the book and find your own Buddhaland! To enter, simply like Alma Books on Facebook and leave a comment on this blog post, telling us where your own personal Buddhaland is. Entries close at Friday 31 May and two winners will be emailed at random for their postal address.

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Classic anime: Vampire Princess Miyu


The best way to sum up Vampire Princess Miyu for me would be ‘Sailor Moon meets Buffy the Vampire Slayer‘. The premise of this vintage 1997 series is deceptive; Miyu is The Guardian, vampire trapped in a 15-year-old girl’s body, goes to high school in Japan, and is tasked with returning evil demons, shinma, to the darkness. Doesn’t sound particularly original, right? Well, you’d be surprised.

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Source: mefistosanimeblog

Spoilers for episodes 1 and 2 below! 

The whole ‘high school girl fighting demons’ is a tried and tested TV series format, from Japan’s classic Sailor Moon to America’s Buffy the Vampire Slayer. However, Vampire Princess Miyu doesn’t quite fit the mould. There are no happy endings! In Sailor Moon and Buffy the Vampire Slayer, bad things happen to good people, but then Buffy defeats the villain and everything goes back to normal (and there’s a good chance everyone will conveniently have amnesia). In Vampire Princess Miyu, everyone dies no matter what. Painfully.

Episode 1 sets the premise for the whole series. The mysterious Miyu Yamano turns up at high school as girls are found dead with the blood drained from their body. Nobuo, your average boy with glasses who is ‘fed up with the boring world’ and feels above it all, suspects that Miyu is a vampire and follows her to the roof of the school where the real culprit is revealed. Miyu puts an end to them but when Nobuo jumps forward and begs her to let him join her and slay shinma. If you’ve watched enough anime, you might expect for Nobuo to be bitten by Miyu and become a vampire, or at least become her bumbling human accomplice. What happens in this show? Miyu chastises him for his idiocy, he falls to his death and she basically just says ‘told you so, idiot’. Ouch.

In the second episode, young women’s souls are trapped in mannequins by a shinma who promises to make them more beautiful. Miyu predictably defeats the shinma but the girls are not freed. She expresses no remorse or pity at all and effectively says ‘they were selfish, so this is their punishment’.

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Source: crawlanime

This brings us on nicely to characters. Miyu appears to be a heartless you-know-what, and there aren’t many living characters to warm up to by the end of each episode. People die regularly and quickly in this show but, fear not, Miyu isn’t the only recurring character around. There’s the mysterious Reiha, another creepy and even more heartless shinma hunter, her talking doll Matsukaze; Larva, a shinma and Miyu’s guardian; Shiina, Miyu’s bunny mascot companion with spooky mixmatosis in one eye; and Miyu’s three school friends, Chisato, Yukari and Hisae. This collection of characters is close-knit enough for you to become close to and interested in them, although it may not make up for the copious amounts of death elsewhere and Miyu’s apparent inability to care about human suffering.

Vampire Princess Miyu is not without its faults, however. With 26 episodes and a small cast, most episodes seem to be stand-alone shinma slaying and tragic human tribulations mini stories. If you like shows like Musashi, where the main character typically encounters a new spirit each episode and interacts with it in a human environment, this is a series for you. If you like a complex plot and an ongoing story, you might find Vampire Princess Miyu a bit slow. That said, the last few episodes turn everything on its head and finish the series off with a bang. You eventually learn how Miyu became The Guardian and, without giving too much away, the ending doesn’t pull any punches. I recommend watching the whole series to really connect with the story but the final DVD in the boxset is by far the best one, in my opinion.

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Source: thedigitalfix

If you want to add more ‘classic’ anime series to your collection, Vampire Princess Miyu sits comfortably alongside old favourites like Berserk, Rorouni Kenshin and Neon Genesis Evangelion. The art style and soundtrack are beautiful and, although dated, do not take anything away from a great story and setting. The director, Toshiki Hirano, also worked on Detective Conan and Fist of the North Star, so you can expect good things! As you might expect with an anime series dubbed in the 1990s, the English voice over version is poor. Miyu sounds like a 30 year old school mistress, rather than a 15 year old school girl (even though she is actually hundreds of years old), and Shiina’s voice is painfully squeaky. That said, I always recommend watching at least one episode in English for comparison. The extras also offer little other than a shinma gallery, which is obviously best viewed after the episodes.

All in all, Vampire Princess Miyu is a solid classic series. Its strength lies in the shinma-human relationships and tragic stories of both humans and shinma who try to live in the human world. Although it feels slow in places, there are some emotive stand-alone episodes and the dramatic ending more than makes up for any other shortcomings. The Complete Collection is now available from MVM Entertainment, and I have already lent my copy to a friend to pass on the love!

Results! The Top Ten Ace Attorney tunes


The results are in for the latest video game music poll! For those of you who don’t know, Ace Attorney (or Gyakuten Saiban, in Japanese) is a video game series for the Nintendo DS about… well, lawyers. And yet it works so well. If I ever had to introduce someone to the Nintendo DS, I’d throw all the Ace Attorney games at them and send them away. There are five games released to date in the west (six in Japan, but we didn’t get the latest one translated) and Japan is expecting the long-awaited Gyakuten Saiban 5 on the 3DS this summer. Fortunately, that is getting translated!

Anyway, this is my favourite Japanese video game series of all time, which is why I decided to celebrate its music! The ‘cases’ are addictive, dark, amusing and there are some fantastic characters to boot. If you haven’t already, buy the first game and try it out! If you have played all the games, you’re fantastic. Either way, hopefully you’ll all like the tunes that made the Top Ten!

100 posts special! Sophie’s Top Ten things about Japan…


Well, it actually happened, Sophie’s Japan Blog has reached 100 posts! To celebrate, I thought I’d do something different this week, so here’s Sophie’s Top Ten things about Japan! Enjoy, and post below and let me know what your favourite things about Japan are!

10) Anime, manga and video games

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Source: realotakugamer.com

Let’s get the geeky stuff out of the way first by putting it all in one place! My interest in Japanese cinema and pop culture almost certainly started with  video games; namely the ‘Final Fantasy’ and ‘Ace Attorney’ series. After joining my university’s Anime and Manga society, I discovered a whole new subsection of conventions and cosplay… along with some wonderful people. It’s weird, it’s loud and it’s proud – and it makes up a good part of my personality and conversations with friends.

9) Vending machines

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Source: japan-guide.com

Fun fact: there is one vending machine per 23 people in Japan, and Japanese vending machines are the greatest vending machines in the world. There really are no photos to describe the joy I felt on first discovering vending machines in Japan. Need some regular soft drinks? Done. ‘Dragon Ball Z’ or ‘Detective Conan’ energy drink? Done. What about bags of rice, fortunes, disposable cameras or instant noodles? No problem. Freshly-pressed suit and tie? Well, if you’ve been working so hard and missed the last train back and are stranded in the city, done! UK, adopt these please!

8) Trains

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Source: japan-guide.com

Here’s something else that the UK needs to adopt – a good train service! Japan is famous for its super fast and reliable bullet trains, the shinkansen. What’s so great about them? Well, some cool features include the rotating chairs and the way the train rolls up perfectly on the platform and doors open on the designated door numbers painted on the floor. Also, they are fast, clean and never late! A two minute delay to a train can make the news! My train out of King’s Cross the other day was delayed by half an hour because “the driver was stuck in a taxi heading over from the depot”… Again, we’re missing a trick here!

7) Shrines and temples

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Source: johnharveyphoto.com

Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples are some of the longest surviving features of Japanese architecture. Shinto shrines are dwellings of the Japanese gods and people visit to pay their respects. The Buddhist temples are not primarily a place of worship but a place of safekeeping for sacred objects. It is common to find shrines and temples alongside each other in Japan and they are still widely frequented by locals and tourists alike. Many of them have been standing for centuries and are steeped in history and tranquil beauty. One of the most famous Zen Buddhist temples is the Golden Pavilion of Kyoto (above).

6) Omamori

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Source: japannewbie.com

Omamori, meaning ‘protection’, are amulets sold at religious sites and dedicated to Shinto deities and Buddhist figures. These small charms are kept inside a cloth bag and may contain a prayer or religious inscription, and are made sacred through ritual. It is believed to be unlucky to open your omamori. Some provide general blessings, whereas others traffic safety, exam success, successful marriage or pregnancy. Of course, they make brilliant souvenirs.

5) Food

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Source: about-Japanese.com

Yakitori, ramen, gyoza, tempura, okonomiyaki, mochi… Japanese food is absolutely delicious. If you’ve eaten Japanese food before, you’ll know exactly what I’m talking about. If you’ve never tried it, find a local Japanese restaurant in your area and go as soon as possible! Some of my favourite London locations are Shoryu Ramen and Tokyo Diner. Of course, it’s much better to try it fresh in Japan if you can get over there…

4) Etiquette

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Source: furthered.com

Manners are very important in Japan and one of the first things that strikes you when visiting is how polite and helpful everybody is. There are codes of conduct for everything from greeting, doing business, taking a bath, visiting shrines and temples and even living in your own house. One of my fondest memories of my last visit to Tokyo was seeing to businessmen, one standing at the doors of the subway and the other on the platform, bowing at each other so eagerly as they were leaving each other that the doors kept sliding open and shut! The behaviour comes completely naturally to you in Japan and the politeness and sense of order will make Japan feel like your home away from home.

3) The tea ceremony

The best way to explain the intricacies of the Japanese tea ceremony is to show you this video from iffywiffy! Japanese green tea is made by grinding matcha leaves into matcha powder, which has a distinct green colouring. It takes a long time to complete the ceremony, but it’s not just about making a nice cup of green tea. The ceremony is quiet and meditative and brings the people present closer together. You can of course buy matcha powder in England,’simply add water’ and it’s still delicious and is a much healthier alternative to your regular cuppa at work.

2) Living history

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Source: sumidacrossing.org

Where else can you find a flashy vending machine next to a centuries-old Shinto shrine, or spy a sumo wrestler boarding the Tokyo underground? Only in Japan! Despite how cheesy it sounds, the phrase ‘old meets new’ sums up Japan perfectly for me. Whether it’s the architecture, food, clothing, music or shops, there’s a little bit of traditional Japan around every corner. Long traditions are still going strong in Japan; it’s perfectly normal for teenagers to pay their respects at their local shrine or temple in a way that is extremely rare in the west. In this way, I find Japan completely unique from any other country.

1) Samurai

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Source: handmademen.com

Alright, maybe you guessed that this would be my top choice. Samurai were the military nobility of medieval and early-modern Japan. These warriors followed a set of rules known as the bushido; the way of the warrior, the samurai code stressing loyalty, chivalry and honour. Japan was under rule of the Tokugawa Shogunate, a ruling family of samurai, for over two hundred years and it is for this reason that many of their teachings are still found in every day life (see points 4 and 3 especially). My love for samurai can be explained by two things: my love of history and the amazing armour and weaponry.

Thank you very much to everyone who has been reading this blog over the (nearly!) past two years! Here’s to plenty more posts to follow…

Terracotta Far East Film Festival line-up announced!


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2 venues. 4 categories. 27 films. 10 days.

Tickets are now on sale for the 5th Terracotta Far East Film Festival in London! For the last five years, Terracotta Distribution has travelled to international film festivals and searched for the best current Asian films of the year, and showcased them at the Terracotta Far East Film Festival. This year’s festival will be running for two weeks from Thursday 6 to Saturday 15 June at The Princes Charles Cinema and ICA.

There are 4 film categories this year: Current Asian Cinema, Terror Cotta Horror All-Nighter, Films in Memory of Leslie Cheung and Anita Mui and Spotlight on Indonesia. As this is a Japan blog, we’re going to focus on the Japanese films. However, I’ve also picked out a couple of other films that (in my opinion) look particularly promising. For the full schedule, you can check out the Terracotta Far East Film Festival website.

Current Asian Cinema: Japanese films

The Story of Yonosuke

Director: Okita Shuichi / Screening: Saturday 8th June 14:35 at The Prince Charles Cinema

It’s 1987 and eighteen-year-old Yonosuke has moved to Tokyo where he finds himself out of step with his more wordly counterparts at university. Despite showing little talent, Yonosuke joins the samba club and takes to dancing with wild abandon. Soon after, he meets Shoko, an eccentric rich girl who shows interest in Yonosuke. But Yonosuke is infatuated with a mysterious older woman named Chiharu.

Juxtaposed against Yonosuke’s life are his friends sixteen years later. However, missing is the affable Yonosuke, who is said to have become a cameraman after college. Little do they know of the selfless tragedy that has befallen their ‘ordinary’ friend.

See You Tomorrow, Everyone

Director: Yoshihiro Nakamura / Screening: Sunday 9th June 12:40 at The Prince Charles Cinema

The Director and acting team behind the hugely entertaining ‘Fish Story’ and the engrossing ‘The Foreign Duck The Native Duck & God in a Coin Locker’ bring you a multi-layered look into life in a Japanese council estate!

Satoru is a simple boy who lives in a government built estate where he’s told that life is so perfect he never wants to leave. The estate has everything needed to live: schools, shops, department stores, friends: all things needed to live a happy life… but as time goes by with friends leaving, relationships changing and shops closing will there still be happiness to be found in the changing landscape?

Land of Hope

Director: Sono Sion / Screening: Sunday 9th June 20:20 at The Prince Charles Cinema

Sono Sion, the director of ‘Love Exposure’ and ‘Himizu’, takes a step back from his usual over-the-top film-making style for a restrained drama dealing with a family’s struggles in the aftermath of a Fukushima-style nuclear power plant explosion in their town.

Set in the fictional Nagashima Prefecture, the Ono family finds themselves torn apart when a large earthquake strikes and sends the local nuclear power plant into meltdown. The 20km exclusion zone set by the government goes right through their front yard and for their family’s future they make the hard decision for the son and his wife to flee while the older arents stay to keep their heritage alive.

Terror Cotta Horror All-Nighter

(Friday 7th June 23:30 to Saturday 8th June 07:10)

Ghost Story of Yotsuya (1959)

Director: Nakagawa Nobuo

A classic retrospective presentation of an old Japanese Macbeth-like folk tale.

Henge

Director: Hajime Ohata

What would you do if the person you loved most in the world turned into a monster right before your eyes?

You can check out the full Terror Cotta Horror All-Nighter line up on the website!

Sophie’s other recommendations…

There is such a range of films to choose from at this year’s film festival, and everyone’s preferences will be different, so here are a few more films I particularly like the look of and am sure you will too.

Hong Kong film: Cold War

Director: Sunny Luk, Longman Leung / Screening: Thursday 6th June 20:05 at The Prince Charles Cinema

An all star cast, an intricate plot and explosive action all combine to make ‘Cold War’ Hong Kong’s biggest box office hit of the year.

Korean film: Young Gun in the Time

Director: Oh Young-doo / Screening: Friday 7th June 18:50 at The Prince Charles Cinema

The director of Invasion of Alien Bikini returns with a quirky, low budget time travel romp filled with sex shops, machine gun hands and Hawaiian shirts.

Chinese film: The Assassins

Director: Zhao Yi Yang / Screening: Saturday 8th June 12:15 at The Prince Charles Cinema

Chow Yun Fat in a historical swordfighting epic tale of love, power and betrayal; this year’s ‘Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon’.

Indonesian film: Postcards from the Zoo

Director: Edwin / Screening: at ICA

The film revolves around Lana, a girl who was raised in a zoo by a giraffe trainer after she was abandoned. Lana grew up surrounded by animals, boundaries and the sounds of subdued wilderness.

There’s a great line up of films here, so if you’re in London you’d be foolish not to check out at least one! Tickets are now on sale so mark the date in your diaries and enjoy!

In other exciting news… the next blog post will be the 100th blog post! I’m working on something special, but in the meantime you can vote for your favourite Ace Attorney video game tunes, and help choose a new weekly feature on the blog’s Facebook page!

OBJECTION! Vote on the Top Ten Ace Attorney tunes!


Name your Top Ten Tunes tunes from the Ace Attorney games!

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In celebration of the latest trailer released for the latest Gyakuten Saiban (otherwise known as Ace Attorney: Phoenix Wright in the west) video game, it’s time for another Top Ten tunes poll! This one is dedicated to Gyakuten Saiban, a marvellous Nintendo DS series from Capcom in which you play a defence attorney, Phoenix Wright, who solves the most ridiculous, suspenseful and entertaining murders of all time! Throw in some spirit mediums, hapless detectives, samurai superheroes and film stars and you have one of the most addictive video game series ever. I’ve lost count of how many times I’ve replayed all these games – I probably won’t tire of them for a long time.

I’m assuming most of you readers will have at least heard of the series, if not played it, and obviously only those who have played will be able to vote in this poll. If you haven’t already, buy the first game and try the series out, and expect to buy the rest of them! To date, the west has had the first four Phoenix Wright: Ace Attorney games translated, along with the spin-off Ace Attorney: Investigations in which you play Phoenix’s rival, Miles Edgeworth. The second Miles Edgeworth game was never released outside of Japan, sadly, so the fans are pretty ecstatic about the upcoming release of this new instalment!

Here’s the trailer:

OK, so that’s all the ‘Phoenix Wright is the best thing ever’ rambling out of the way. Here’s how to vote…

  • Post below and name up to 10 of your favourite songs from any of the Ace Attorney/Ace Investigations games that have been released in the west
  • Share this poll with your friends, and get more and more people to enter!
  • Voting closes on Monday 13th May! Sophie will then mash together a short video of the Top Ten tunes and report back to the blog

Need reminding of some of the songs? Here are two of my favourites to get you started:

Cornered (Phoenix Wright: Ace Attorney)

Shi-Long Lang’s theme (Ace Attorney Investigations: Miles Edgeworth)

Gyakuten Saiban 5 will out in Japan on 25th July, so the rest of us will have to wait longer for a translation. In the meantime, you can reminisce about the ‘good old games’ or play them for the first time and see what all the fuss is about. Oh, and it’s out on the 3DS, so if you’ve not got one, here’s a good excuse to buy it!

Check out the results from the Final Fantasy Top Ten poll that ran on the blog a few months ago!

Get voting and have fun!

Mugenkyo Taiko Drummers’ UK tour!


Powerful, spell binding and infectious; the Mugenkyo Taiko Drummers are touring the UK this spring. As the most successful touring taiko drum group on this continent, Mugenkyo have developed a spectacular passionate style with music for the soul, fusing the traditional  spirit with a contemporary look & sound, creating a modern stage performance that has captivated audiences everywhere.

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Taiko drums are unique to Japan and drumming has been an important part of the country’s history for centuries. These magnificent drums are traditionally played in temples and shrines during religious festivals and ceremonies, and are a traditional accompanying sound to warfare. It has only been in the last 40 years that taiko drums have been bought to stage, and Mugenkyo is the UK’s longest established drumming ensemble. One of the most memorable taiko drums is the O-daiko, which is so big it permanently resides in the shrine or temple. It takes great endurance to play this powerful instrument. The smaller byō-uchi-daiko is made from a hollowed out piece of wood and shime-daiko have heads sewn on to iron rings which are then laced to each other around the drum body. The shime daiko can be tuned by tightening the rope but the byō-uchi-daiko is defined by the diameter of the tree they are made from.

Mugenkyo forge a new path for taiko drumming and present it as a modern performing art complete with dramatic lightning, choreography and costumes.  They are touring England and Scotland this May, so find out if they are coming to a city near you and book some tickets! You won’t be disappointed.

Wednesday 1 May: Hamilton, Town Hall

Thursday 2 May: Aberdeen, Music Hall

Friday 3 May: Ayr, Town Hall

Saturday 4 May: Arbroath, Webster Memorial Theatre

Tuesday 7 May: Bolton, The Albert Halls

Wednesday 8 May: Leicester, De Montford Hall

Thursday 9 May: Birmingham,  Town Hall

Friday 10 May: Weston Super Mare, The Playhouse

Saturday 11 May: Ilfracombe, The Landmark Theatre

Sunday 12 May: Exmouth, The Pavilion

Tuesday 14 May: Neath, Gwyn Hall

Wednesday 15 May: Taunton, The Brewhouse

Thursday 16 May: Portsmouth, Kings Theatre

Friday 17 May: Horsham, The Capitol

Saturday 18 May: Leamington Spa, Royal Spa Centre

Sunday 19 May: Welwyn Garden City, Hawthorne Theatre

Tuesday 21 May: Derby, Assembly Rooms

Wednesday 22 May: Halifax, Victoria Theatre

Thursday 23 May: Stockport, The Plaza

Friday 24 May: Lytham St Annes, Lowther Pavilion

Need more convincing? Just watch this video…

If you’re around Glasgow or Edinburgh, you can even head over to the Mugen Taiko Dojo and take part in one of their workshops!

If you happen to be living down south (like me), you may need to take a trip and have a night out with friends! With any luck, I’ll be able to make one of the performances and blog about it!

Photo credits to taiko.co.uk

Slicing, dicing and sisterly love: Ga Rei Zero


“Will you kill someone you love, because of love?”

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Say ‘hello’ to MVM Entertainment‘s latest supernatural action anime series, Ga-Rei Zero, and it’s a good one! This is a gem of a series and, with only 12 episodes and a follow-on manga if you really enjoyed watching it, would make a nice addition to your DVD shelf. The series had three ‘arcs’ for me; the ‘explosions and slicing and killing’ arc, the ‘sisters doing it for themselves’ arc and the ‘oh no please stop dying’ arc! Marathoning it in one weekend meant I was riding an emotional rollercoaster, and I think that’s quite an achievement given its length.

Synopsis

Kagura is the daughter of the revered Tsuchimiya line, the leader of which controls the powerful beast Byaku-ei from a seal on their back and a long chain connecting their souls together. When her mother tragically dies and her father assumes his role of head of the family, she is sent to live with Isayama Naruku, a close friend of the family, and his adopted daughter Yomi. Yomi, whose own parents died when they possessed by demons, and the timid Kagura seek solace in each other and grow up together and sisters.

Yomi and Kagura become agents of the Supernatural Disaster Countermeasures Division to help keep the world free of evil ghosts. Yomi wields the prized Isayama heirloom, Shishio, which holds the spiritual beast Ranguren. All the while, the two must maintain their cover as regular schoolgirls and build relationships with others as best as they can.

Sadly, we know from the very beginning of the series that Yomi ultimately betrays Kagura and everything she holds dear. Friendship and love gives way to family feuds and vengeance, bringing the series to its tragic conclusion. The first episode sees Kagura as the villain and the series then goes back in time to when the two sisters first met then works its way back to the first episode again.  Ga-Rei Zero is the prequel to the popular Ga Rei manga series, which picks up where the anime left off and later on sees the dramatic reunion of Kagura and Yomi.

If you have read the Ga Rei manga, Ga-Rei Zero fleshes out the characters of the two sisters. If you watch Ga-Rei Zero and move onto the manga because you liked it so much (like me) you have the benefit of chronology.

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Characters

The range of characters in the show makes Ga-Rei Zero particularly appealing. There’s just enough to make the show complex without distracting from the overall plot. Yomi’s character is the most complex, as we see her evolve from loving older sibling to a vengeful villain who still cares deeply for her sister. Kagura is initially bland and childish but is forced to become an adult and stand on her own two feet. This sisterly relationship is what ultimately drives the plot, before the demons pulling strings and rampaging around the city.

The Supernatural Disaster Countermeasures Division form the second main body of characters. There’s Izuna Noriyuki, Yomi’s fiancé by design of their families, the Nabuu brothers who talk in perfect unison, manly-gay old man Iwahata Kouji and Kazuki Sakuraba, who wields machine-gun briefcases. Kazuki’s my favourite character for obvious reasons.

Behind the scenes are Yomi’s manipulative relatives, Yuu and Mei Isayama, who seek to disinherit her and assume leadership of the family as blood heirs. They end up becoming unlikely and unwilling participants in the series’ climax. Mix them altogether and you get a load of characters who you get very attached to.

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Soundtrack

If you’re the sort of person who judges a series by its opening sequence, Ga-Rei Zero won’t disappoint. Minori Chikara performs the opening ‘Paradise Lost’ and Mizuharu Kaoru is responsible for the chilling ending song ‘Yume no Ashioto ga Kikoeru’. I really can’t stop listening to the opening song, so will post it here and let you decide for yourself. If you think ‘ooh, this is good!’ then check out the DVD!

Subs versus dubs

Ahh, the eternal nerd question: ‘subs versus dubs’. Is it better to watch your anime in the original Japanese language (with subtitles, assuming you’re not fluent in Japanese) or can the English dub be just as good? In the case of Ga-Rei Zero, it’s more or less the former. Overall, the voice actor line-up is pretty strong for both the Japanese and English casts. The original Japanese version features the Japanese voice acting god Norio Wakamoto (Oda Nobunaga in Sengoku Basara, among many others) as both Nabuu brothers, which always instantly makes an anime better in my opinion.

In the English dub, Leah Clark (Saki in Higashi no Eden) lends her talents to the voice of the innocent Kagura, as does Jason Liebrecht (Lavi in D.Gray-Man) for Noriyuki. It’s the voice of the ‘villains’ and darker characters who let the episodes down. Yomi and Mei were not convincing in their English language roles – they basically sounded far too ‘nice’ for supposed bad girls. I recommend watching at least one episode in English, if only to get out of your comfort zone, as there are some strong voice actors in there.

Extras

The third DVD is full of wonderful extras and goes beyond the standard ‘textless opening and closing’ and ‘trailers’ options. I recommend watching the location specials, which is a set of mini documentaries about the show’s research team exploring various locations in Japan for the setting of the anime. It makes more sense after you have watched the series so you can go ‘oh, I know what happened here!’ Doesn’t ‘anime research team’ sound like the best job in the world? The other extras include promo videos that were used to advertise the show before it aired and trailers for some of MVM Entertainment’s other titles, including Fruits Basket which felt like a blast from the past!

The verdict

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Short, sweet but an emotional roller coaster of a series, Ga-Rei Zero is one to add to your collection! If this all sounds tempting, you can pre-order the series which comes out on 22 April, or you can try your luck at the giveaway currently running on MVM’s website!

Photo credits to mygalleryofworlds and MVM Entertainment

Souzou: Outsider Art from Japan


A few weeks back I flagged an upcoming exhibition at the Wellcome Collection in London, which I was able to visit yesterday with my fantastic friend Jenny. Souzou: Outsider Art from Japan is an aesthetically impressive and moving exhibition; I would say it is not simply an art exhibition but an exhibition about the mind. I highly recommend you stop by and check out the Wellcome Collection’s latest major exhibition, which is running until 30 June 2013.

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‘Souzou’ and ‘Outsider Art’

Souzou is a word which has no direct equivalent in English but a dual meaning in Japanese: ‘creation’ or ‘imagination’. Both meanings allude to a force by which new ideas are born and take shape in the world. In the context of this exhibition, souzou refers to the practice of 46 self-taught artists living and working within social welfare facilities across Japan.

‘Outsider Art’ is another term that does not perfectly sit with the English language but the closest approximation would be French artist Jean Dubufet’s theory of art brut, art that is uncontaminated by culture. It is now an internationally-recognised term commonly used to describe the work of artists who have had no tuition but create for the sake of creation, without an audience in mind and who are often perceived to be on the edges of mainstream society. The artists exhibiting at Souzou: Outsider Art from Japan have been diagnosed with various cognitive, behavioural and developmental disorders or mental illnesses, and are residents or attendees of specialist care institutions.

As you move around the exhibition, it becomes apparent that the fantastic works on display are the artists’ main way of expression their hopes, fears, ambitions and their perception of the world around them.

Art and the Japanese work ethic

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In Japan, Outsider Art has become closely aligned with public health and education reform since 1945 when a highly developed social welfare system was established. In 1947, an educationalist named Kazuo Itoga founded Omi Gakuen, the first facility for war orphans and children with disabilities which was revolutionary for its time, offering a free-form syllabus encompassing agriculture, education, medicine, psychology, art and literature.

The main emphasis of such institutions was on work, an essential component of Japanese life which informs every level of social interaction and is key to an individual’s identity. It was hoped that training people in workshops would improve their chances of finding employment, and a place in society, once they had left the institution. An artist named Kazuo Yagi took over Omi Gakuen’s workshop in 1954 and insisted on his students’ right to self-expression, arguing that they should be allowed to produce non-functional objects when they wanted and without formal training. This policy of non-intervention in the creative process became a model for other social welfare institutions in the Shiga prefecture and, eventually, the rest of Japan.

The artistic process is therefore firmly embedded in social care in Japan, whereas it was traditionally seen as more of an ‘alternative’ in Europe, and so Outsider Art was not typically displayed in museums for many decades. In 2004, the Borderless Art Museum NO-MA opened and exhibited works that were made within a welfare context alongside mainstream art, radically changing the landscape of Outsider Art. The following year, the not-for-profit organisation Haretari Kumottari was founded and undertook an audit of all the artists creating work in welfare institutions in order to protect their rights and conserve their art. Souzou is the result of the body of works that was formed.

The exhibition

The history of the Souzou exhibition is incredibly interesting and, of course, you are probably wondering what kind of works are on display. I recommend picking up a leaflet when you step through the doors, as this will comprehensively guide you around the displays and provide some background information on the artists and what they are expressing through their works, and why they have chosen their particular medium. The art on display ranges from paintings to paper dolls to pottery to traditional Japanese washi paper.

There are six different sections to the exhibition: ‘Language’ and ‘Making’ introduce some of the characteristics commonly associated with Outsider Art; ‘Representation’ and ‘Relationships’ provides insight into how the artists perceive themselves and interactions with other people. ‘Culture’ and ‘Responsibility’ explore the artists’ awareness of the world in which they live and their bid to understand and take control of it, which leads to new works being born.

A couple of artists really stood out for me, although I imagine that each person will be drawn to different works. In the centre of the exhibition is a large glass cabinet holding hundreds of tiny glittering action figurines, each one a different colour, size and holding various weapons. Amazingly, these are styled out of twist-ties  by Shota Katsube which are conventionally used to fasten bin liners. The intricacy of these figures is unbelievable, and is best appreciated by crouching down so you can spot the obvious influences of the Gundam series and Transformers.

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Norimitsu Kokubo’s huge-scale drawings of fictional cityscapes explore places that he has never visited but have been constructed by what he has glimpsed in books and on the internet. One of his works-in-progress that was on display, taking up an entire wall, was amazingly unfinished but will be 10 metres long once completed. Marie Suzuki‘s phobic portrayals of sex, procreation and gender were the most uncomfortable part of the exhibition for some people but impossible not to look intently at.

This is not an exhibition you should visit when you are in a rush, as it’s essential to get up close and examine the hidden, tiny details in the artwork. The exhibition was busy on a Saturday, so you often overheard the person next to you pointing out something that you missed in a piece of art. It is impossible not to be impressed by the sheer variety of creative work and the stories of the artists behind them. In the final section of the exhibition are some televisions playing short movies of some of the artists making their work and interviews with their families. It is rather moving but I recommend watching at least one of the videos.

Whether your area of interest is art, psychology, sociology or Japan, Souzou: Outsider Art from Japan is well worth a visit. The exhibition is incredibly insightful and a great way to spend an afternoon. Don’t forget to explore the rest of the Wellcome Collection’s exhibitions once you’re finished!

Photo credits: The Wellcome Collection

Miyajima Magic


It’s been a long time since I last did a Japan travel post, so I thought I’d tell you about the most beautiful place I’ve ever visited in Japan (so far): Miyajima Island.

All photos were taken by yours truly, which is pretty rare for this blog!

Miyajima Island is considered to be one of the most spiritual places in Japan. It is home to the giant ‘floating’ torii gate, so-called because it appears to be floating when the tide is in. When the tide is out, you can walk right under it! Beyond the torii gate is Itsukushima Shrine, which is also built over the water. Torii gates mark the entrance of Shinto shrines, and people come to pay their respects to the resident kami gods and pray for good luck. To reach Miyajima Island, you must take a short boat ride from Hiroshima. It’s a site to behold when the floating torii gate comes into view for the first time.

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Shortly after stepping off the boat, you’ll meet the friendly four-legged locals. The wild deer on the island have become accustomed to humans over the years, to the point that they will jump up at you and go rummaging around bags hanging over push chairs.

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Beyond Itsukushima Shrine is Mount Misen, the place where Buddhism was first believed to be practiced. Kobo Daishi, the founder of the Shingon sect and one of Japan’s holiest religious people, meditated at the summit and lit a flame at the Reikado (Hall of Spiritual Flame) which still burns today. A short distance from the summit is Misen Hondo, one of three places where Tantric Shingon Buddhism is taught, as well as a few other shrines and temples where you can pay respects to the kami and purchase an omamori charm for good luck.

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There are two ways to reach the summit; either follow in the footsteps of Kodo Daishi and hike 529.8m above sea level, or cheat and take the ropeway and take a still rather hilly but much shorter fifteen minute walk to the summit. When I went with my mum in September, we decided to carry on beyond the summit and ‘explore’ the steep pathways but the heat and terrain soon beat us. At one point it looked like we were lost but we found our way back to the ropeway station, enjoyed the world’s most rewarding icecream and took the easy way back down to the town. If you’re a hardcore hiker, however, there are the Seven Wonders of Mount Misen to look out for:

  • Kiezu-no-hi: The sacred fire at the Reikado that has burned for over 1,170 years.
  • Shakujo-no-ume: Kobo Daishi’s plum staff where he left it and sprouted roots and leaves. If the staff-turned-tree doesn’t bloom its double blossoms in the spring it is considered a bad omen.
  • Mandala Rock: A large rock into which Kobo Daishi carved Buddhist sutras in Sanskrit and Chinese.
  • Kanman-iwa: A rock with a hole which is said to be filled with salt water during high tide and drain out during low tide.
  • Shigure-zakura: It is always damp under this cherry tree, so a perfect resting spot for hikers.
  • Ryuto-no-sugi: Ryuto is a phenomenon where lights appear on the sea, and it is best viewed from this cedar tree.
  • Clapping wood sound: At night, you can hear the sound of wood clapping on the mountain. It is said to be the work of a Japanese Tengu goblin clapping wooden clappers.

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After all that walking, you’ll want to explore the rest of the island. One of the most beautiful structures in the town is the five-storied Tahota Pagoda, which sits on a hill rising behind Itsukushima Shrine. Nearby is Senjokaku, the pavilion of 1000 mats, so-called because it is the size of approximately 1000 tatami mats. Toyotomi Hideyoshi, one of the three great unifiers of Japan, commissioned the hall for the purpose of chanting Buddhist sutras in 1587. However, he died before it was completed and was succeeded by Tokugawa Ieyasu rather than his heirs, so it was never finished. Although it has neither ceiling nor a front entrance, it is still impressive to see.

The Daisho-in is also an essential viewing place. This temple is located at the bottom of Mount Misen and features various buildings, statues and religious objects. The most impressive place is a cave filled with 88 buddhas representing the  temples of the famous Shikoku Pilgrimage. I recommend visiting Daisho-in at night when the staircase is lit by candlelight. You’ll need to stay in a traditional ryokan inn for at least one night in order to see the island in all its glory in both the light and dark.

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There are so many breath-taking views and secrets hidden down the alleyways of the town.  In many ways, it feels other-worldly. The best way to experience Miyajima is to see it so, for now, I will leave you with some more holiday photos and urge you to spend some time on this beautiful island.

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